Leather cleaning
The starting point for every restoration. On dirty leather no colour or protector will hold.
Services Leather treatments
Impregnation and protection
Products that protect against UV, water and denim dye transfer — the most common cause of stains on light-coloured seats.
The cheapest thing you can do for leather — and the only one that works as prevention rather than repair. A protective layer stops three things: UV radiation, which burns out the colour; water, which draws dirt deep into the material; and dye from denim.
That last one is the most common cause of complaints about light-coloured seats. New jeans transfer dye at every contact, and on cream leather they leave stains that after a few months become permanent.
How we do it
- Cleaning — a protector applied over dirt seals the dirt in underneath.
- Applying a product matched to the type of leather; on aniline we use one that doesn't close the pores.
- Drying and buffing to an even, matt finish.
When to do it
On a new car or a new piece of furniture — straight away, before the first pair of jeans has a chance to transfer dye. On used leather: once a year, and with light colours and a car parked outdoors, even twice.
Protection is also the last stage of every full restoration, so you don't need to order it separately after your seats are restored — it's included in the price of that job.
Leather treatments — other services
Leather softening
Leather exposed to the sun goes stiff — fastest of all in a car. Softening brings back its suppleness before it starts to crack.
Painting and dyeing
Colours matched to the type of leather: one kind for pigmented car upholstery, another for aniline and semi-aniline furniture leather.
Pigmentation and colour correction
Evening out the shade on worn areas, or changing the colour of the whole thing.
Leather de-glossing
With long use, leather turns shiny where it is touched. De-glossing brings back its factory matt look.
Gluing and stitching
Split seams, lifting edges, cracks at the folds.